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We love our dogs so much we'd do just about anything for them -- and to them, it seems.
TATYANA MAKEYEVA/AFP/Getty Images
We love our dogs so much we’d do just about anything for them — and to them, it seems.
Joan Morris, Features/Animal Life columnist  for the Bay Area News Group is photographed for a Wordpress profile in Walnut Creek, Calif., on Thursday, July 28, 2016. (Anda Chu/Bay Area News Group)

With dogs playing such an important role in our lives, we owe it them to give them the best care we can. Here are some tips on how to do that.

Trimming your dog’s nails

Fewer things cause more angst to dog and human alike than trimming the nails, but it’s a necessary task as longer nails on dogs can result in issues with their hind legs.

Before dogs were domesticated, they spent their time hunting, often running several miles in pursuit of a meal. All that running naturally wore their nails down, and the only time they used the nails was to dig in while climbing a hill. That instinct still remains, so when dogs walk on a flat surface and feel their nails trying to dig in, they automatically bring their hind legs in under them as if they were climbing. It takes a lot of energy to maintain that posture, plus it can stretch ligaments and hurt the dog’s natural alignment — all four legs should be squarely beneath them.

Longer nails also can become painful as they strike hard surfaces, so make nail trimming a part of your routine.

  • Don’t be timid about it. A dog will sense your apprehension and act accordingly.
  • Grip the foot firmly and gently separate the toes.
  • Use sharp, scissor-type clippers or clippers especially designed for nail trimming.
  • Make small cuts until you reach the proper length. Cutting too deep and into the quick can be painful and make your dog more afraid the next time.
  • If you struggle with getting the nail short enough without going too far, do a quick, short snip, then trim them again in a week. Otherwise, every two to three weeks is sufficient.
  • Accidents happen. Keep a small bowl of corn starch handy to staunch the flow of blood, and some treats to take away the bad vibes.

Housebreaking your puppy

This is the chore that everyone who adopts a new puppy dreads most, but it’s not rocket science. Just remember, your puppy wants to cooperate with you.

Consistency is the key to housebreaking your pup. The good rule of paw is that for every month in age, puppies can control their bladder for one hour. For example, a 2-month-old puppy will need to go out every two hours during the day.

 

  • Puppies can hold it longer during the night, but to help them, take away the water dish about two hours before bedtime.
  • Take them at the same time of day as well as first thing in the morning, after play sessions, after meals and after they drink from their water dish.
  • Pick one spot in the yard where you want them to go, and head there  every time. The dog should be on a leash.
  • Start associating potty breaks with a specific word or short phrase. In the future, they’ll know what you want them to do when you tell them.
  • Reward them for success immediately, either by a treat or with praise.
  • Don’t freak out if they have an accident. It happens to the best of us. And never punish your dog. That will only make him afraid of eliminating in your presence.
  • If you catch the puppy in the act, immediately get his attention and take him outside, using the bathroom cue you’ve been working on. For this reason, it can be useful to leave the leash on until the pup is housebroken.
  • Always clean up accidents immediately using a cleaner formulated to combat the odor. Puppies will return to the spots and use them again (and again) if they detect the scent of urine.
  • If you need to leave your puppy alone in the middle of housebreaking, confine him in a training crate. The crate should be big enough for him to stand and turn around in, but no larger. Dogs don’t like to eliminate where they sleep. This will help the puppy learn to hold it, just don’t leave him for too long.
  • Consistent housebreaking should be completed in a week, but continue with training to reinforce the lessons.

 Stop that barking!

A barking dog can be annoying and stressful to both you and your neighbors. The biggest mistake most humans make is to yell “quiet!” as loud as they can. Your dog thinks you’re just barking along with him.

  • Teach your dog to bark. By teaching him to “speak” on command, you can then teach him to stop on command. Start the training by taking your dog into a quiet space and give him the “speak” command. You might have to give him some encouragement. Once he barks two or three times, give him a treat. Then start again. Once he’s got “speak” down, give him the bark command and when he starts say “quiet” and give him a treat when he stops barking. Repeat again and again, and really, let’s be honest, again.
  • Teach your dog to ignore the thing that makes him bark. If he starts barking every time he sees a cat, put him in a position where the cat is far away. Start giving him treats as you move closer to the cat. When the cat goes away, cut off the treat supply. This should teach him that the appearance of the cat means he’ll get treats.
  • The hardest method of all is to ignore the dog when he barks. Don’t react, don’t yell, don’t even look at him. Continue ignoring him until he stops barking, and when’s he’s quiet, give him a treat. No matter how much your ears ring, don’t give in. Once you do, he’ll bark longer and louder the next time. Don’t try this method outdoors where your  neighbors will be the ones reacting, perhaps with a court order.

 Reading your dog’s mind

Wouldn’t it be great to know what your dog is thinking? It’s easier than you think. All you need to do is learn to read the tail and pay attention to the ears.

  • Tail wagging does not always mean the dog is happy. Typically a slow, stiff, side-to-side wag with the tail straight up is a sign of an alert dog, not an excited one. A tucked and wagging tail is a sign of nervousness and submission. Happy dogs will have their tail at a neutral level and will wag it quickly and loosely. The best tail is the “helicopter tail,” which is just like it sounds — the tail moves in a giant circle. This means they are very happy.
  • When at play, puppies often nip at each other’s faces, feet and tails and make a lot of noise. While this might seem scary to new pet parents, it’s all perfectly normal. This is also how they learn to play appropriately, so it’s important that they get a chance to do so. The only time an owner needs to intervene is if one of the dogs seems frightened and upset.
  • Ears are the barometer of a dog’s mood. If a dog’s ears are erect and facing forward, they are interested or possibly aggressive. When their ears flatten against their head, this means they are fearful or submissive.
  • If a dog bares his teeth he is either showing aggression or fear, although we have seen dogs on YouTube who are just being goofy. If you see a lot of teeth, then he is grinning at you, showing affection or appeasement.

Finding the perfect dog

Many people seek out a certain breed of dog based on a favorite childhood pet. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course, unless you grew up in the country with a Great Dane and you now live in a studio apartment in the city.

Expand your horizons. While the ultimate choice is made with the heart, use your brain to first narrow the field.

  • Consider your lifestyle. Do you like to bike and run, and are you looking for a canine pal to join you? Or are you more the quiet, stay-at-home type? Dogs have their own needs when it comes to physical activities. Some require a lot of excise while others don’t need quite as much.
  • Consider your living conditions. Bigger dogs that need room to roam won’t be happy in an upstairs apartment or a place with a tiny backyard. By taking that into account, you can prevent a lot of problems before they’ve begun.
  • How much time do you to have to spend with your dog? Some breeds are more needy than others. If they’re going to be left home alone for extended periods during the day, you might need to hire a pet caretaker or have a friend stop by to let them out or take them for a walk.
  • You also should take into account other people and animals in the household. Are all the humans agreed on getting a pet? Are there young children that might not mesh well with some breeds? Will a new pet disrupt the dynamic among the other pets?
  • Can you afford this? Dogs, just like people, require preventive medical care and an occasional emergency trip to the vet. There also are rabies vaccinations, flea and tick treatments and, in some places, dog licensing. Don’t be discouraged by anticipated expenses, just be aware of them.
  • Volunteers at pet rescue groups and shelters will be able to talk to you about a pet’s personality and any special concerns. Once you’ve made all the tough decisions, let your heart fall in love with the perfect dog.

Dogs and children — keeping both safe

Most reported dog bites involve young children, making it important to not only train your dog, but also to train your children.

  • Educate your children. As a parent, even if you do not have a dog in your house, you need to teach your child about dogs. It is important that they learn to recognize different forms of body language. Instruct them about how to say hello to a dog and how to pet a dog a safe way.
  • Build a stronger bond between your dog and your child by encouraging your child to help with training. This helps the dog understand that the child is also part of the family and needs to be taken seriously. It can also help your child feel like they have control of the dog and can give him direction when needed.
  • Never leave a dog unattended with a child as accidents can occur at any moment. If an adult is not there to read the dog’s behavior, a child could push the dog too far, causing him to play rougher than he understands.
  • Work with your dog to get him accustomed to being around children and to not react if they poke or prod at him.

Crating your dog

Crating can be a good training tool and is necessary for travel. Here are some tips on how to properly use a crate.

  • Your dog’s crate needs to be large enough for the dog to be able to stand up and turn around in. A crate that’s too small will cause your dog discomfort. If you plan to use a crate throughout your dog’s life, you’ll need to upgrade as the puppy grows.
  • Don’t get a crate that is too big. Dogs like the coziness of the intimate space, and they also won’t eliminate where they sleep. If the crate is too large, the dog might be encouraged to do that with the extra space.
  • Don’t leave your dog in a crate longer than half a day, or overnight. Dogs need physical and mental stimulation as well as interaction with humans or other dogs.
  • A crate can be instrumental in housebreaking a dog or dealing with other issues such as inappropriate chewing.
  • Don’t use a crate as punishment. It should be a place that dogs like to go to escape commotion, to sleep in peace or just to take a break. If it is used as a punishment, the dog will learn to fear or dread it.

What to feed your pet

Not all pet food is created equal, and not every top-selling food is the right one for your pal. Discuss your pet’s nutritional needs with your veterinarian. Also, remember that obesity in pets is just as bad as it is in humans, and that giving your pet lots of treats is not doing them any favors.

  • Just because dogs and cats are carnivores, that doesn’t mean that’s all they should eat. Dogs benefit from a diet of meat and vegetables, while cats are perfectly happy and healthy with no vegetables as their bodies can’t process most vegetable matter, or vegetables in large amounts.
  • Treats are ways of showing your pet love and are a good training tool, but they are no substitute for a balanced diet. Many treats also are high in fat and calories, so when giving your dog treats as training rewards, you need to factor those into the daily calorie count.
  • The stereotypical fish-eating cat is a fallacy. Cats originated in the desert and are not natural fish eaters. Limit the amount you serve.

Traveling with a pet

Some pets enjoy traveling with you, but others don’t. Find out what type of pet you have and accept that, sometimes, you may have to find alternative plans for your pet.

  • If traveling by air, talk to the airlines about their policies for accepting pets and how they are accommodated. A flight with a layover or very long travel times might be too hard on it.
  • Inquire about special paperwork that will show your pet is healthy and current on vaccinations.
  • You might have to purchase an airline-approved carrier.
  • Whether you’re flying or going by car, make sure your pet is wearing identification tags, even if it is chipped. Better to be safe than sorry.
  • If traveling by car, set up your pet’s crate or carrier in a comfortable place where it will not get too hot or too cold.
  • Your pet might want to be out in the car, but if he is, he needs to be secured by a harness. Pets need seat belts or restraints, too.
  • For longer trips, plan ahead to find pet-friendly hotels. Restaurants generally bar all animals except service animals from the premises because of health and safety regulations involving food preparation. Pack some lunches or be prepared to visit drive-throughs.
  • Pack enough food and supplies to cover the road trip, plus a little extra to cover unexpected emergencies or delays.
  • Stop often to give your pet a chance to stretch his legs or at least get out of the crate, use the litter box or the great outdoors, and to get a drink. If your pet is stressed by traveling, he can become dehydrated quickly.
  • Never leave your pet alone in the car. Heat in the summer and cold in the winter can build quickly.
  • Don’t open the door of your vehicle unless your pet is secured or on a leash. They can and do bolt through an opened door or window, and you might never find them again.