Favorite Caesar

Quality makes a difference here. Buy a block of the best Parmigiano-Reggiano you can afford and grate it yourself. Alternatively, purchase date-stamped grated Parmesan cheese in a tub from a shop you trust. Use anchovies packed in olive oil or salt. For salt-packed anchovies, soak them in cool water for 15 minutes, rinse, and pat dry before using.

I use extra-virgin olive oil in almost everything, but here, equal parts canola and olive oil in the dressing keep the flavors in balance.

Serves 6

1/2   loaf day-old Italian bread, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)  

1   cup extra-virgin olive oil  

3   large cloves garlic, minced  

1/2   cup plus 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus shaved, shredded or freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish  

1/4   cup fresh lemon juice  

2   tablespoons red wine vinegar  

2   egg yolks (see Note)  

3   to 6 anchovy filets, plus 4 for optional garnish  

1   tablespoon whole-grain mustard  

1   teaspoon Dijon mustard  

3/4   cup canola oil  

2   romaine hearts, cored, leaves separated, rinsed, and spun dry  

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper  

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, combine the bread cubes with 1/4 cup of the olive oil, about one-third of the garlic (it’s not necessary to be exact here), 1 tablespoon Parmesan, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Toss to evenly coat the cubes. Spread the croutons on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, turning the croutons once with a spatula as they bake. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool.

While the croutons bake, place lemon juice, vinegar, 1/2 cup Parmesan, egg yolks, 3 anchovies, the remaining garlic and whole grain and Dijon mustards in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Puree until smooth. With the motor running, gradually drizzle in the canola oil and then the remaining 3/4 cup olive oil until the dressing is thick and creamy. Taste and add more anchovies, lemon juice, salt or pepper if you wish. (To make ahead, refrigerate the dressing in a tightly sealed container for up to two days.)

To serve, toss the croutons with a tablespoon or two of the dressing to lightly coat them. Toss the romaine leaves in a large mixing bowl with just enough dressing to coat them well. Arrange the leaves all in the same direction on a platter or in a large, flat serving bowl. Sprinkle with croutons and dust liberally with Parmesan. Garnish with additional anchovies if desired.

Note: If you don’t wish to serve uncooked egg yolks because of the risk of salmonella, use pasteurized shell eggs or pasteurized egg product available at some supermarkets.