NEW YORK – A sense of imbalance that just might jolt you awake. Mixing it up can mean a smooth glide into new territory. And if you want to make more than a fashion statement, say something about the environment or counterfeiters.
These were the dominant messages from American designers during the recent New York Fashion Week.
The spring 2008 collections started just as a taxi strike went into effect, hampering the scramble to shows. It concluded after an excessively debated Marc Jacobs presentation and several established designers showing collections that veered from their usual aesthetic.
There were shows that announced the use of eco-friendly fabrics and the serving of only organic food and no plastic bottles backstage. Anna Sui gave her guests a T-shirt of a “Wanted” poster that made a point about her copyright infringement suit against the owners of knockoff retailer Forever 21.
After eight days and 200 or so runway shows and presentations attended by editors, retailers, stylists and stars, the next cycle in fashion appears to be one that will include a saturation of feminine color, fearlessly deliberate lingerie touches and versatile separates perfect for Silicon Valley weather and propensities.
While going green was the theme for the main venue – the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week tent in Bryant Park – it was also the prevailing shade in many collections: “Pomelo” at Derek Lam, “Foliage” at Chaiken and “Celedon” at Peter Som.
American designers pitched classic spring details such as pleating, ruffles and draping while insisting on structure and tailoring to get the right curve on a seam or a fit on a shoulder.
Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa captured the austere elegance of the namesake label with a series of silk shirts and dresses with “seamless shoulders” a cut that molded fabric tightly around shoulders.
Another designer who specializes in deceptively simple lines, Narciso Rodriguez, showed a collection that included dresses, coats and shirts that were less stringently cut than usual, allowing for a flattering flow to the embroidered and beaded voile and georgette fabrics that he used.
The most talked-about show – once again – was Marc Jacobs’ late-night celebrity circus. The 9 p.m. show started at 11:05 p.m., moments after Victoria Beckham took her seat. Jacobs reversed the usual order of a fashion show, coming out to take his bow first, then sending his models out for their finale parade before they reappeared, one by one, in crazy/brilliant asylum ensembles, sauntering to Ravel’s “Bolero.”
With descriptions like “silly string guipire gown,” “one-third satin dress,” “too small sandal,” no one attending knew what to expect. Consistent throughout was a lingerie theme, lacy underthings peeking out from cutaway gowns or see-through pants. There were several whimsical bra-and-panty trompe l’oeil outfits that required a second look. The effect was plenty naughty without being sexy.
By February it will become clearer how these will translate at the retail level, but Jacobs’ is so influential that there’s no doubt we’ll see his touch trickling down to mass brands displayed on store racks.
Reinterpreting designer styles has always been part of the fashion cycle, but with instant Internet access and lust for designer clothing, the knockoffs have been more blatant and often are in stores months before the real deal. Which is why designer Sui, along with Diane von Fürstenberg and others, are suing mall-based, teen fave Forever 21, where lithe young women who can fit into anything can get a close replica of a Sui or DVF wrap dress for a fraction of what the real thing sells for
While fall collections often set forth a new direction in fashion, it’s the spring shows that makes sense for Northern California.
For warm-weather 2008, skirts, pants and dresses with coordinating – but not necessarily matching – jackets and coats in lightweight wool, silks and cottons are perfect for our weather and our mix-and-match lifestyle.
